I visited the beautifully picturesque alpine city of Innsbruck for a weekend of sightseeing and skiing

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Stepping off the plane, the sheer size of the surrounding mountains stop me in my tracks as I gaze in wonder.

I visited the alpine city of Innsbruck, taking in all the history, culture, and skiing that the city had to offer.I visited the alpine city of Innsbruck, taking in all the history, culture, and skiing that the city had to offer.
I visited the alpine city of Innsbruck, taking in all the history, culture, and skiing that the city had to offer. | Joe Williams

90 minutes ago I was in the hustle and bustle of London, now I could not feel any further removed from it. So began four days of incredible skiing and sightseeing in a European city that I previously knew little about.

Courtesy of Innsbruck Tourism Office I visited the Austrian alpine city of Innsbruck. Utilising the Ski plus CITY pass I took to the slopes and made the most of the food, culture, and history that the city had to offer.

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One thing I discovered about Innsbruck is that no matter what time of day it is, there is always something new to see. The city’s features work in tandem with the elements to highlight its unique aspects. Whether it is the sun kissing the tops of the mountains in late afternoon turning them an amber gold, or the morning glare making the colours of the houses pop across the emerald river Inn. Whatever time of day, the city has a show in store.

The snow capped peaks above Innsbruck turn golden in the late afternoon as the sun sets.The snow capped peaks above Innsbruck turn golden in the late afternoon as the sun sets.
The snow capped peaks above Innsbruck turn golden in the late afternoon as the sun sets. | Joe Williams

There are 12 skiing areas in Innsbruck and I ventured to two of them; Kuhtai, the highest ski area at 2,020 metres, and Axamer Lizum, the biggest ski area with stunning views over Innsbruck. As the bus snaked up the mountain to Kuhtai, my nerves started to build. The last time I had been skiing was in 2020 when we joined a mass exodus off the mountain as all the hotels shut for COVID. I was by no means an expert skier, add nearly five years of non-skiing to that and it was set to be a challenging day.

Those nerves did not subside as our guide, Hanz, said it could be a difficult area to ski. The warm up slope was a short red as I tried to remember how to turn, going approximately 5 miles an hour, with shaking legs as the group waited for me at the bottom. Fortunately, it didn't take me long to get back into the swing of it and my confidence grew as we tackled each slope. I felt a twinge of pride when later in the day, Hanz commented on how much I’d improved over the morning. Or, as he described it, since my “rough” start.

Kuhtai is littered with red slopes that could be challenging in places (and icy) but overall were great. For a beginner these might not be the best slopes to start on, but Hanz had a different perspective, musing that if you learnt to ski here, you could ski anywhere.

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Axamer Lizum has the reputation of being one of the fun ski areas. It is home to the Golden Roof Snowpark, and was where alpine skiing took place in the 1964 and 1976 Winter Olympics. Before this trip, if you had told me I would be skiing down the slopes where the men and women's Olympic slalom took place, I would have laughed. But there I was, cruising down the mountain which Olympians had shot down at a blistering pace.

It was a glorious area for skiing, similar to Kuhtai, the slopes at Axamer Lezum were challenging in places but were wide which enabled you to take them at your own pace. There was a mix of red and blue slopes with the difference between them minimal in terms of gradient. The stunning pay off however, is the view from the gondola. Looking out over Innsbruck, I watched a plane take off and rise beyond the incredible vistas leaving the picturesque city behind.

The view at the top was just as spellbinding. Even if you are not a skier it is worth venturing up to see it. The Hoadlt-Haus restaurant, situated at the top of the gondola, has a glass front allowing you to look out over Innsbruck with a coffee…or some Kaspatzin. The traditional Austrian dish was like Macaroni cheese but with gnocchi instead of pasta. Topped with crispy onions it was revelatory. Sure, an absolute carbfest, but the most glorious and delicious kind.

The stunning view of Innsbruck from the top of the gondola at Axamer Lizum.The stunning view of Innsbruck from the top of the gondola at Axamer Lizum.
The stunning view of Innsbruck from the top of the gondola at Axamer Lizum. | Joe Williams

The two ski areas were brilliant but would be challenging for a complete beginner. However, fear not, there are ten other ski areas to explore including the Schlick 2000 Ski Centre which advertises itself as more family friendly, including supervised sessions for children from aged one upwards.

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Having fallen in love with skiing again, there was still so much to do besides. The Ski Plus City pass gives you access to the ski slopes, lifts, cable cars, and even bus transport to the slopes. It also gives you access to 22 historic and cultural attractions so there is plenty to see. Combined with the cheap flights available from Expedia, it makes Innsbruck very accessible.

We went on a fascinating walking tour of the city with local expert Monika, whose passion was infectious. She knew every nook and cranny and its historical context. The walk took in the Golden Roof, built by the Roman Emperor Maximilian I, whose extravagant fingerprints are all over the city.

As well as the Court Church, filled with 28 bronze statues of historic/mythical figures to watch over the cenotaph, including our very own King Arthur. Ambras Castle, a romantic monument, was another impressive site to visit. Built by Archduke Ferdinand II so that he could live out his married life peacefully, away from the public eye having married below his social class.

On the last evening of taking in the splendours of Innsbruck, I wandered around the Imperial Gardens which had been transformed for LuMagica. Intricate and beautiful lights filled the park as families took in the sights, with young children gazing at the figures in awe.

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What was most captivating though, was just walking around the city itself. Visiting in December, the historic old town is littered with idyllic stalls from the Christmas markets. It is a quintessential Christmas scene, it dawned on me that this is what every high street market in the UK is trying to replicate, but falls miserably short of.

Crowds meandered round in festive cheer, no doubt helped by the mulled wine in their hands and the delicious Kiachl in their bellies. I became a regular at the Kiachl stand over my stay. It’s similar to a donut but can be savoury. Shaped into a bowl it can be filled with either jam or sauerkraut. I couldn't stop myself from going back for more.

The humble Kaspatzin and Kiachl were delicious revelations.The humble Kaspatzin and Kiachl were delicious revelations.
The humble Kaspatzin and Kiachl were delicious revelations. | Joe Williams

There are so many places worth a mention, too many for one article alone. Whether it’s a fantastic dinner at Ottoburg, lunch at Drei Seen Hutte in Kuhtai (I can recommend the Cordon Blu), a beer at Stiftskeller, or a stay at Hotel Innsbruck (my English sensibilities prevented me from enjoying the nude spa), every corner of the city holds a delight.

Booking.com have a number of accommodation options on their website to fit your budget, including Hotel Innsbruck, which is a stones throw from the the River Inn and the Golden Roof.

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The beauty of the Ski plus CITY pass is that it gives you balance and choice. If you want a break from skiing for a day, or an afternoon, there is so much to see and do. I don’t know of many places that provide an incredible picturesque European city with 12 ski areas just a short bus ride away. I have been besotted by the city, its people, its food, its skiing and its beauty

I cannot recommend Innsbruck enough, whether it’s a ski break or a city break you are after, this fits the bill and then some. Christmas was a magical time to visit, but its beauty is year round. If you do go, maybe you’ll see me there. The city has got its hooks in me and is pulling me back for another visit.

The Ski Plus City pass costs 147 euros per adult for a two-day pass, with teenagers (103 euros), children (74 euros) and seniors (125 euros) also catered for. For longer stays you can purchase a pass for up to 21 days. Further information can be found at ski-plus-city.com

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